In a few weeks, folks from around the world will be heading to Geneva for Watches & Wonders, the trade’s most anticipated annual event. Beyond just watches, the city of Geneva is often associated with luxury and wealth. That’s why I’ve always found it so odd – and fascinating – that the fate of the least fortunate billions of humans on this planet is in large part being brokered a few hundred meters away from where small country GDPs are spent on jewelry, hotel suites and general exuberance.
On the northern side of the city and the west bank of the lake, the international district of Geneva is the home to the largest United Nations center outside of New York and many of its global agencies. Those include the World Health Organization and the World Trade Organization. Many leading non-profits also have their base in the area, including Doctors Without Borders and the Red Cross – officially known as the International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC).
Simply walking around the area – easily accessible via tramway, line 15 – is an experience in and of itself. Hundreds of people often dressed the same but with visibly different origins, usually a light blue lanyard holding a UN badge around their neck, walk from one building to the other, at a Manhattan-like pace. While it’s easy to point out that they appear pretty disconnected, or at least remote, from the billions of live they’re here to save, I can only respect that they’ve dedicated their career to such causes – I certainly can’t say as much.
The general vibe in the area is unique. Power is in the air, but mixed with virtual images of war, famine and diseases. The climax of this tension is perhaps just outside the Palais des Nations, the majestic UN building. The Broken Chair is a spectacularly large statue originally brought by Handicap International to bring attention to the humanitarian crisis caused by interpersonnel mines. Around it, protesters from around the world often gather to bring attention to their cause.
Another landmark of the neighborhood is the original ICRC building. If it reminds you of a mid-century hotel, you’re spot-on. The place was originally destined to be a Carlton hotel. Unused, it was eventually donated by the Canton of Geneva to the International Committee of the Red Cross. Despite having been built with a very different purpose, the architecture today somewhat seems fitting for one of the earliest and most influential non-governmental organizations ever, founded in 1863.
As you get closer to the “CICR” sign (the acronym, in French) and the Red Cross flag at the top of the building, you’ll start to see a smaller, modern, glass construction below. That’s where the ICRC Museum is located. Whether you live in Geneva, are visiting on business or as a tourist, I can’t recommend it enough. In a very gentle yet profound way, the experience pedagogically takes visitors through some of the fundamental challenges faced by the NGO and the people it aims to help.
My wife and I first took our kids there when the youngest was about 6 years old and the eldest 13. While we each got something different out of it, it felt suitable, and relevant, for all our ages. The permanent exhibit is based on 3 main pillars: Defending Human Dignity, Restoring Family Links and Reducing Natural Risks. It’s highly interactive, and while “fun” may not be the right word, it’s definitely very engaging. Meant to generate understanding and compassion, but not there to shock or fuel guilt. There are also various temporary exhibits such as, currently, “Tuning In”, an exploration of music’s role in humanitarian intervention.
Everything you need to know to plan a visit can be found on the Museum’s website. Other interesting activities in the area include a tour of the UN building, although I must confess I haven’t yet done it myself (I plan to though). Finally, useful tips and other information about the international district can be found on the Geneva city website.
Have you visited the museum already? Do you plan to? Any thoughts or questions are most welcome in the comments below.
