Attempting to grasp why watches are so powerful at – literally – capturing our minds has led me to read a bunch of books, and even writing one. Among the missing pieces of my ongoing puzzle is a truly scientific approach to understand how the hobby can get out of control, turning pleasure into pain. The topic of watch addiction is a common thread among my watch friends, of all ages and continents. Many have told me this article is the one they’re most looking forward to reading after five years of this blog.
Dr Jean-Marie Sengelen is Head of the Psychiatric Department of Réseau de l’Arc, a clinical network at the heart of Switzerland’s watch industry, covering Bienne and the Jura region. As a practitioner, he’s treated patients working in the watch industry as well as collectors. I’ve been hoping to interview him for a few years now. The stars finally aligned last month.
What defines an addiction, in medical terms?
An addiction is when there is an irrepressible desire combined with a loss of control, and a pursuit of the behavior despite its negative impact. That negative impact can be on one’s personal or professional life, on their health or their finances. It is triggered by our reward system, through dopamine, when the system is dysfunctional or trained the wrong way. Originally, the various classifications out there focused on addiction to substances. But now, they are increasingly including behavioral addictions, such as gambling or video-gaming.
What causes addiction?
An addiction occurs when the reward system becomes pathologically corrupt. The prefrontal cortex does not say “stop” when it should. The underlying causes of that can have multiple factors. Genetic, but also very much behavioral. For instance, what the person has witnessed growing up, such as if their parents had addictive behaviors.
How is an addiction different from a passion, or an obsession?
In a passion, there is the notion of pleasure, of life improving as a result. Of course, sometimes a passion can have some constraints, or require accommodations, but there is a general sense of harmony, without loss of control. An obsession in the clinical sense is an intrusive thought, such as with OCD. It does not really apply in the scope of our topic. But regarding how we use it in common language, “obsession” can actually be one of the traits of addiction.
A helpful framework is provided by the British psychiatrist Mark Griffiths. He defines six traits of addiction:
- Salience – meaning the particular activity becomes the most important activity in the person’s life. That is where the “obsession” aspect comes into play.
- Mood modification – the addiction is used as a method to shift our mood state.
- Withdrawal symptoms – such as extreme moodiness.
- Increased tolerance – the fix needs to be greater and greater over time.
- Conflict – the addiction ends up causing friction or damage with other parts of life: work, relationships.
- Relapse – fast re-adoption of the habits after periods of withdrawal.
Is every addiction necessarily bad?
That’s a good question because we all in fact showcase addictive behavior throughout the day, in many ways. So what is the pathological threshold? Some psychiatrists, such as William Glasser, even talk about positive addiction. You could think of exercise or meditation falling under that category. We need to look at addiction in a non-judgmental way. Addiction is a process, and what characterizes it is the final outcome on health, finance, personal relationships, work, etc.
Is collecting a form of addiction?
The collector is a personality type, distinct from the topic of addiction. In psychoanalysis, there have been many theories about collecting, about possession, control, going all the way back to anal retention in childhood. That is outside of my field.
A collection can be enriching and positive. An art collector, for instance, can combine their passion with knowledge, and have them contribute to society, through the preservation and promotion of cultural heritage. A collection can connect you – and others – to things greater than ourselves.
But then of course a collection does not prevent an addiction. Some people will behave like sophisticated art collectors in society, but like junkies behind their computer during an auction. According to Michel Le Joyeux, the compulsive buyer is more attached to the act of buying than to the object itself.
Can one be addicted to watches? Not just purchasing, but for instance overconsuming information, on social media, etc.
Absolutely. Let me share some traits of addiction in the context of watches, and we’ll see if you or some of your readers can relate: compulsive buying, an internal tension only relieved by the purchase, with the relief being only short-lived; an ongoing need for novelty even if incoherent with the rest of the collection; constant search of models, forums, sales, deals; an almost exclusive center of interest, something you think of all the time; community reinforcement because the members will reward new acquisitions and normalize the behavior. Can you relate to any of these?
I’d love to say no, but that would be a total lie! I can relate to all.
Social media really plays a role in this. It creates a desire and also dissatisfaction about your own collection. The targeted algorithm reinforces it all. It’s a perfect storm. The cues constantly get you in desire mode, further enhanced by FOMO.
What are the main risks?
When it comes to watches, the initial risk is financial. You spend more than you should, and sell at a loss. It’s the destruction of value. That, in turn, can lead to conflict in the couple, or potentially other family members, or at work. Along with it, a feeling of guilt, and shame. The problem is not the object, but the behavior.
Are there traits of addiction to watches that distinguish it from other types of objects and collections?
One characteristic of watches is – often – their high cost. That means a different kind of financial impact compared to, say, someone who collects comic books. The issue is that the potential investment aspect rationalizes the behavior and reduces the guilt. But in most cases, it’s a delusion. And as tolerance increases, so do the amounts the person is willing to spend. And when they need the funds, they typically sell at the wrong time, further increasing the loss.
Another trait of watches is the social prestige associated with them. It’s about identity, status, and signs of success. And, depending on the model chosen, a social signal: a chunky gold Rolex and a vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava both signal some wealth but don’t send the same message. As such, the watch becomes a part of your identity. That can create further attachment, making the addiction deeper. Saying no to the desire to own can feel like denying part of yourself. Again, this is all further emphasized by social media.
The technical complexity, variations in design and provenance help provide justifications for new acquisitions. There is always a temptation, because there is always a void. You can always rationalize. The perceived residual value can make it feel like you are behaving responsibly. The notion of purchasing for posterity, or legacy, can almost lead to perceiving the act as selfless. In the same way, buying a watch for your partner or your children can be part of the rationalization process; but in fact, it is often part of the same addictive behavior.
If someone feels they are addicted to watches – or are afraid to become addicted – what can they do?
First, there are some questions you can ask yourself, to assess. Here are a few, based on a loose interpretation of DSM and Griffith’s criteria:
- Did I try to reduce my watch consumption, without success?
- Do I have invasive, excessive thoughts about watches?
- Is it causing me financial issues? Do I hide to my partner the actual amounts spent?
- Is it hurting my relationships, or impacting my work?
- Do I sometimes become irritable, or feel a need, when I don’t satisfy a purchase craving?
If you feel you are indeed addicted, there are a few things you can start by doing:
- Control the stimuli. Sign out of Instagram, unsubscribe to watch YouTube channels. Write down all the stimuli you face, and remove them.
- Block watch e-commerce sites in your browser. Sure, you can always find workarounds, but that will introduce beneficial friction.
- The seven day rule: before any unplanned purchase, let seven days go by. That means accepting to miss a good deal. But it also means you are truly constituting a collection versus just succumbing to impulses.
- Set a budget for watches, in agreement with the co-owners of the family budget, e.g., your partner.
- Set the rule that in order to buy, you must first sell.
Then, to go further, you can of course consult professionals. Psychologists, psychiatrists and addictologists. They can help train your mind to resist the impulse, tolerate the perceived cravings and defer the reward. Mindfulness techniques are also very helpful. Ultimately, controlled consumption can be the goal. There is no need to end it all.
